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When the ostrich reached in to nip at his collar, Boyd Clark bopped it gently in the face with his cowboy hat. The bird drew back, seemingly affronted. The rest of Clark’s flock of yearlings—each already over eight feet tall—swirled around him like feather dusters. Then they pressed back in, looking for a meal. “Sometimes I’ll be out here working on something, repairing the fence, and they’ll all be around, pecking at my ears or the back of my neck,” said Clark, an easygoing, bearded man dressed in a puffy vest. “It gets a bit old.” At first glance, ostriches might not seem like promising livestock. An African member of the ratite family—a group of flightless, shaggy-feathered birds that also includes the Australian emu and the South…
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